Recreating a 17th-century embroidered jacket, The Embroiderers' Story chronicles its progress.

Spangles on the Bobbins

April 24th, 2008 by Tricia

Tricia sent me this post for tonight:

Spangles on lace bobbins with hair clips.I know many of those lacers reading the blog would like to see how we are keeping the spangles on the bobbins. Here you see the spangles on one with Carolyn’s small hair clips to hold the thread in place.

Bryce makes lace.We are also adding pictures of Bryce, our speedy lace maker from the April session and her early progress.

Everyone enjoyed watching her fast hands clicking the bobbins and having the airy lace start to float off of the pillow.

The first piece of real lace takes shape.I started thinking that I would have to get out my own bobbins and learn myself!

Tricia

Spangle Making

April 17th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Mark in the Crafts Center.Last Friday the embroiderers at our April session got an unexpected treat – Mark was working in the Crafts Center making spangles. Lots of Mark’s work isn’t suitable to the Crafts Center, requiring a big fire like it does, but this work is great for that space.Mark in the Crafts Center cutting spangles.

Wendy and Tricia took photos and also video, I believe. Wendy sent me these photos.

The spangle maker’s work bench in the Crafts Center at Plimoth Plantation.Two tubes of the silver thread for the lace making arrived in the mail from Tricia this morning. Carolyn sent a note that she and Wendy will be down week after next to wind bobbins. Carolyn will finish off the wing piece that Bryce did, and start the next piece so Jill H can work when she comes in May.

Joann G’s embroidery sample arrived a couple of days ago and Kathy sent a big pile of embroidery kits out. Those of you who were waiting for kits, they’re on their way. I think that’s all the news for today.The Spangle Maker’s display.

Bryce makes Lace, and Rose Strategy

April 13th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Bryce settling into a rhythm with the lace.Here’s two pictures of Bryce working, both from Friday. And here’s what Bryce said in the comments about her time in the workroom:

I had such a wonderful time making lace. I urge all you lacemakers out there to try it! It’s a little fiddly, but not difficult. The people — staff and embroiderers both — are wonderful. The food is as good as they say it is. All in all, a great place to get away from everything for a couple of days. Thank you! I’m hoping to get back!Bryce making spangled gold and silver bobbin lace.

I’m glad she had such a good time, that is the point, after all, to have a good time doing something you enjoy with other people as crazy I mean passionate and dedicated as you are. Well, that and making the thing. That too.

Tricia and Wendy discuss how to work the rose motif on the embroidered jacket.I mentioned that Wendy is working the prototype of the rose motif this weekend. I wanted to expand on that a little. Before she started stitching, she and Tricia sat down with some detailed photos of this motif, both prints and digital images enlarged on Tricia’s laptop. They sketched out the shape and drew in the direction of work, determining which stitches and and colors should be used. Here are a couple of pictures of that conversation. This took maybe a half hour, give or take, and they’ve done this with a couple of other motifs, too. It’s one of those fascinating things that happens almost unnoticed, I think all those working in the other room had no idea this was going on. I just happened in and thought you’d like to hear about it.Tricia and Wendy sketching out the instructions for stitching the rose motif.

So they decided how to proceed, and Wendy will finish the prototype this weekend as I mentioned. If it looks like the originals we’ll be good to go. If for some reason it doesn’t come out as expected, then it’ll be back to the drawing board to see if a different method will result in a more faithful reproduction, just like the process Mark went through with the spangles. Sometimes this is called experiential archeology. Whatever you call it, it is pretty cool. Likely this level of intense scrutiny would only happen in trying to create a reproduction, which is one of the reasons why I do this sort of work.

Out of Service

April 12th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Today, one of the sleeve pieces went “out of service”. This is a good thing, not like when that happens to your TV. I am plenty excited.

Out of service means we’ve hit a point where we can’t do anything else on it, until either we get more instructions or more materials. This is the first large piece to go out of service. Before today only the gussets were out of service. All that’s left on them is the gold work, and we’re waiting for the next iteration of that thread for Tricia to test.

Left under sleeve out of service.Today Susan K finished the plain worms, and the only things left on this piece are 2 columbines, 2 1/2 borages, 1 1/2 birds, 3 butterfly wings, 1 “fancy worm”, and 1 1/2 roses. We’re waiting on directions from Tricia for these motifs: colors, stitches, direction of working, that sort of thing. So, OK, there’s still an awful lot to do here, not to mention the gold work and the oes. But let me enjoy the moment.

Wendy is even now working the prototype of the rose motif and taking detailed photos as she works which Tricia will magic into the awesome individual motif directions we have for the other motifs. Once we have those, we’ll bring this back to do the roses.

Did you catch that “fancy worm” comment? Most of the worms are simply done in ceylon stitch in either red or blue GST. The fancy worms are different, two colors and we haven’t quite determined the stitch yet. The term captured my imagination, though. FANCY WORMS. Is that an oxymoron or what?

I’m a little giddy, I actually worked two and a half leaves today, including one two-color leaf. Woo-hoo. I was working on the right side, which is in one of those huge, unwieldy frames. I stood to work on it, with the frame propped against the big cutting table. Tired now, but very pleased.

Bryce W was here for two days and has taken the first piece of lace as far as it can go. Turns out the 13″ piece for the wing needs 15 motifs and we strung only enough spangles for 13 motifs. Tomorrow Wendy will unwind some of the bobbins and add more spangles so when Carolyn next comes in she can finish off this piece and get the next one started. The lace is well and truly underway. No wonder I’m a little giddy.

Marilyn left a comment the other day, that when she got practiced at the trefoils she was able to do one in three hours. That is really zipping along, and part of the reason they’re called “dreaded trefoils”.

Hey, can anyone recommend a really sturdy needle threader? We keep busting the ones we have and can find. Any suggestions?

More tomorrow.

Sweepings

April 4th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Embroidery sample received from Debbie A; stockings received from Susan J and Monique N; 2 pair gloves received from Linda F. Riches.

Penny and Shaina spent the day cleaning the office, not the big workroom, but the office. The office is a medium-sized room.  There are two bookshelves, about 12 big plastic tubs that hold fabric scraps sorted by content and color, plus a mess of stuff that has no other home. There’s also a big desk that holds the phone and the old computer, a temperamental behemoth which is currently on vacation in the IT manager’s workshop. The past couple of days I have thanked heaven and Robbin for the laptop many times a day. The office also houses everything I had no other good place for. Plus my filing system is haphazard at best. I usually think I will only remember things if I can see them. Out of sight, out of mind. But the desk had gotten to be an archaeological site – I had to find things based on how long ago I’d last seen them. Not good.

So Penny and Shaina volunteered to “help” which meant they did all the hard work. They moved stuff, filed the obvious, vacuumed, dusted, washed, threw out what needed to go and repeatedly encouraged me when my attention wandered. The office looks absolutely great, and I only have three smallish piles of stuff I don’t know what to do with. One of the piles is left over from the great office cleaning of 2003. The other I inherited from my predecessor, from whom I learned my filing system. Ahem.

spanglesMark made some more spangles today. He worked in the Crafts Center, thus visitors to Plimoth were able to watch and ask questions. I saw him on his lunch break and he said he was having fun. So we’ll have more spangles for next weekend’s session (not tomorrow, a week from tomorrow), plus a great exhibit into the bargain. spangle stock

The other thing I did today was consult with Kathleen and Marcia about food for the 4/11 – 4/14 session and let them know how many we’re expecting. I’m delighted to say that we’ll have more than a handful of workers next weekend – the first time we’ll have embroiderers and lacers working together. I can’t wait. We’ll be in the wardrobe office, and tomorrow’s first job is to send a note to the participants. There’s still room if you would like to join us.

**If you’re having trouble getting in touch with me, please call if that’s convenient (508-746-1622 X8119) or leave a note in the comments. The office computer’s rest cure means I can access new emails to the jhall@plimoth.org address (ones since Wednesday) but not old ones. So I can’t return emails I got before Wednesday. Plus we have a new spam filter, which works excellently but has kept out some legitimate mail. So if you think I should have written back by now, please call or leave a comment.

Without whom the spangles would not be possible …

March 31st, 2008 by Jill Hall

I know I promised pix of Robbin’s lace work today, but at the time I wasn’t remembering that I wouldn’t be in the office today. I left them in the laptop at the office. Here instead, is the story of the completion of the Spangle Quest in Mark’s own words. The gratitude, though, is seconded by all of us who Love the Jacket.
Hi Jill,

These are the people that helped me make the spangles happen. First of all Paula Marcoux* introduced me to George Greenemyer. He is a sculptor and instructor up at Massachusetts College of the Arts. George had volunteered for the Marine Dept. and Paula thought I ought to meet him. He is a very interesting and talented guy.

Because of research Wendy and Trica had already done we knew a lot about the process of spangle making. While I could make the tools to cut out the spangles I did not have the tools or ready knowledge to make the stock. That was when I gave George a call. He referred me to Peter Evonuk an artist and fellow instructor at Mass Art. Peter manages their metal smithing studio. I made an appointment with him and he was extremely
helpful. He drew and rolled silver wire to replicate the process we needed and then sent me off to a metal plater that some of his students had used. That required a trip to Attleboro to E. Sweet and Sons, Metal Finishing. I met Scott Sweet the President and owner. He was as helpful and knowledgeable as Peter. Before I left that afternoon Scott gave me a tour of his facilities and personally plated the samples of wire that Peter provided me. So back I went to Boston so that we could experiment and evaluate our results. Peter rolled the wire and heated it slightly to compare to the images of originals that Tricia had taken when we went to the MFA. Our results were close enough to encourage us that we were on the right track. So backI went to Plymouth to order silver wire and prepare it for plating. I called Scott once more and he offered to once again help me. We discussed the adjustments Peter and I had agreed upon and he once again plated my stock as I waited. This was enormously helpful as by all rights he should have made me get in line with all his scheduled orders. In addition to this at the end of the day he refused payment for his generous services.

So it was back to Mass Art. Peter and I were ready to make a final trial. We rolled out one nine inch piece of wire into three feet of beautiful golden ribbon. With those results we went ahead and rolled out the rest of my three feet of plated wire into almost 18 feet of stock to make spangles out of. Altogether it took about 15 minutes. If I hadn’t been so pleased with the results it would have been quite anticlimactic. Peter also refused compensation for his help.

All in all it was the knowledge and time that these individuals contributed that allowed my part of this project to be as accurate and special as the rest of the work that has gone into the embroidered jacket. I can’t thank these generous people enough.

Mark M. Atchison
Blacksmith ~ Interpretive Artisan Department

*Paula has been with Plimoth for a long time. I always have a hard time defining what exactly any particular Plimoth staffer does, and Paula’s no different. She’s worked in several different capacities, including colonial foodways manager, marine artisan, interpretive (land-based) artisan, and a bunch of other stuff without special titles.

The Real Thing!

March 29th, 2008 by Jill Hall

101 silver gilt spanglesMark brought us 101 spangles. After all the time and effort he and others put in, it may seem like a very small pile of result. But there was great rejoicing.

heap o’ spangles


Carolyn wound bobbins. Due to a greater demand for the lace kits than we’d anticipated and a longer delivery time on the gold & silver lace threads, she had to ration the remaining thread and carefully plan how many bobbins to wind. (Don’t worry, though, more thread is on the way.)Wendy helps Carolyn string spangles on the silver thread.

We measured and measured the embroidery pieces to determine how long the lace pieces should be. Carolyn decided to start with the pieces that will go along the shoulder wings.

Wendy and Carolyn strung the spangles onto the lace thread and then wound the thread onto the bobbins.

Carolyn makes the first repeat of the real lace.

Carolyn made lace. It seemed to Wendy and me that the work went really fast. Every time we peeked, there was more to see. Carolyn thought it took a very long time. It came out to about an inch per hour.Two repeats - a full day’s work.

Robbin’s here today making lace and Melanie Anne is embroidering. I’ll have those pictures Monday. I also owe you one more post from Tricia.

A Good Day

March 18th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Today was a good day in Colonial Wardrobe. For one thing, we got to see Wendy.

Wendy holding gilt ribbon for spanglesFor another, we got to see Mark, and the way cool gilt ribbon. He kindly brought it up to show us and he and Wendy measured it. Over 18′ of gilt ribbon. We figure it’ll make, oh, plenty of teardrop spangles. Mark’s going to make some next week in preparation for the weekend lace trial.

Months ago, Tricia and I identified as one of the objectives of the embroidered jacket project that we could interest new embroiderers in the craft, and encourage people who already embroider to try new and more advanced techniques. That has certainly happened, and keeps happening. A surprise by-product, though, has been the whole Knitting Stockings phenomenon, and consequent spreading of knitting skills.

Here’s Kelley re-footing an old stocking. When the feet wear out we darn them, and whenKelley refooting an old stocking they’re too thin to darn anymore we take off the feet and reknit them from the ankles. When Kelley started working with us in January she didn’t know how to knit at all. Now she’s re-footing stockings. This is testament to the general enthusiasm and optimism running rampant around here, to Kelley’s perseverance and patience, and to Penny’s excellent teaching.

Wendy’s gunnister pocketLook what Wendy brought us! This is a pocket or pouch based on the one found on Gunnister man, a 17th-century body preserved in a Scottish peat bog. This is Wendy’s first attempt at knitting in the round, as well as her first attempt at knitting with two colors. Pretty successful, I’d say, especially since she only started it on the last day of the last embroidery session. So that’s two new knitters added to the fold. Pun intended.

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