Recreating a 17th-century embroidered jacket, The Embroiderers' Story chronicles its progress.

Not So Much Seeing

July 17th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Another thing I’ve found, now that I’m working on the embroidery with something approaching regularity, is that once I get going, feeling the work is just as important as seeing it.

I was wondering if working in the Crafts Center would slow me down a little or a lot; most of the point of being there is to engage the museum’s visitors in conversation, after all. I thought looking up and down would cause me to lose my place and focus and impede progress. What I’ve found, though, is that people are quite happy to watch the work and don’t always need eye contact to keep the conversation going, for one thing. For another, feeling with the needle where the next stitch goes is really effective – both the detached buttonhole and trellis require you to loop the next row of stitches through the previous row. If you’re encountering resistance you likely haven’t got the right spot. I don’t mean to say I’m stitching without looking, only that looking up frequently doesn’t slow the work and is probably better for my eyes anyway.

Tonight, Tricia’s directions for the detached buttonhole needlelace. This is what she named the stitch for the completely detachable pieces, the pea pod covers and the butterfly over-wings. These three stitches (this one, trellis and detached buttonhole, links to which I posted earlier this week) are the most important right now. If you’re practicing, work on these.

See Robbin’s note in the comments about working trellis stitch up vs down; Tricia will send us a note too I’m sure and I’ll post that when we get it.

About the symposium conflicting with Rosh Hashanah, could someone let me know which parts of the weekend specifically conflict with observing the holiday? Linda left a comment about whether a person could attend the parts that don’t conflict, and in order to answer that or arrange things that way I’d need more information. Thanks. ETA: the symposium dates have been changed so as not to conflict with Rosh Hashanah. The New Dates are 24-27 September. jmh

Lace sample received from Linda K and embroidery sample from Nicole R. Thanks to both.

Australia

May 13th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Susan D’s sample, all the way from Australia!Look what we got from Susan D in Australia! This is our very first sample received from Australia. I was so excited to see the return address on the package. Thanks, Susan, for sending it back. We’ll use your beautiful work in the exhibit (along with the other samples), so visitors can see the stitches up close, can see the backs, and can appreciate the extent of support and enthusiasm for the jacket project from stitchers all over the world. The returned samples really do contribute to the success of the project. Don’t feel that coming here to embroider is the only way to participate.

Susan’s whitework sampler.Susan sent a lovely note along with her sample. (And the notecard’s cover is a photo of a piece in the Royal School of Needlework’s collection, so that was a treat too!) She said she checks the blog regularly and enjoys the progress photos and the “show & tell” pieces from the embroiderers. She sent two photos of her work to share. With Penny’s help I managed to scan and resize them so I could post; they don’t zoom, though, unfortunately. The worm is Susan’s first attempt at Elizabethan Raised Embroidery. Thesusan’s sampler drawnwork sampler is a work-in-progress “the closest I am ever likely to come to making lace” Susan wrote. I don’t know what you think, but to me this IS lace, not so much close to making lace but actual lace.

This is another work in progress, “Sharon Cohen’s 17th century sampler (with modifications).” Your work is just beautiful.

Thank you so much for sharing these, Susan, and for supporting the jacket work in general. I feel so encouraged. Does anybody remember the children’s book Mike Mulligan and his Steam Shovel? Mike and his steam shovel, Marianne, work harder and faster when people are watching and encouraging them. I feel like that; this is a long project (!) and sometimes a little encouragement goes a long way. That, and knowing someone will notice if you slack off. . .

Spangle Making

April 17th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Mark in the Crafts Center.Last Friday the embroiderers at our April session got an unexpected treat – Mark was working in the Crafts Center making spangles. Lots of Mark’s work isn’t suitable to the Crafts Center, requiring a big fire like it does, but this work is great for that space.Mark in the Crafts Center cutting spangles.

Wendy and Tricia took photos and also video, I believe. Wendy sent me these photos.

The spangle maker’s work bench in the Crafts Center at Plimoth Plantation.Two tubes of the silver thread for the lace making arrived in the mail from Tricia this morning. Carolyn sent a note that she and Wendy will be down week after next to wind bobbins. Carolyn will finish off the wing piece that Bryce did, and start the next piece so Jill H can work when she comes in May.

Joann G’s embroidery sample arrived a couple of days ago and Kathy sent a big pile of embroidery kits out. Those of you who were waiting for kits, they’re on their way. I think that’s all the news for today.The Spangle Maker’s display.

Your Thoughts

March 25th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Lace sample received from Julie E. This and all the lace samples are just gorgeous. I get seriously distracted when a new one comes in, holding it up, watching the sequins tremble. . . getting a little nervous about sewing it all together. . .

Lovely green stockings received from Monique N. I honestly feel that knit stockings in the bin are like money in the bank. When someone wears out a pair they don’t have to be cold waiting for us to fix them. Thank you.

Thanks to everyone who has signed in to the forum. How cool is that?

I need your help again. I am working on a multi-media presentation on the jacket project (not just me, though, I am part of a team). As part of it, I’d like to hear from you. Would you share your thoughts on this project, what it means to you, why you think it has captured so much attention and enthusiasm, why you think it is important? You can send me email (jhall@plimoth.org) or regular mail:

Jill Hall, Colonial Wardrobe

Plimoth Plantation

PO Box 1620

Plymouth, MA 02362

I will set up a place in the forum, too. Let me know your name (first and last initial is fine) and general location (city/state or province/country should do the trick).

Your comments will be used in support of the project – for information packets, for fund raising, as part of the eventual exhibit, that sort of thing. Thank you in advance for what I know will be thoughtful, eloquent contributions to the cause.

Spangle Success!

March 17th, 2008 by Jill Hall

After that meeting Mark went away with research and ideas. A few weeks later, which was last November, he arrived in the Wardrobe Department with, in Wendy’s words “a battered coffee can under his arm and a big grin on his face!” Wendy goes on:

reproduction spangle making toolsThe most amazing things tumbled out of that coffee can! Mark had made the tool, a small hole punch, a poker, a pusher and a die! And SPANGLES!!!!!!! They looked like the pictures! What joy!reproduction spangle punch

Here’s Jill again. Since then, Mark and I have talked about how he went about making the spangles. Some of the process is clear from the originals, that they were punched, for example, and from a strip of gilt silver, like a ribbon, not from a big flat piece like a sheet of paper. Some, though, of what he’s done is conjecture. It’s one way to solve the puzzle of how to get this result, not the only way and not necessarily exactly the way Mark reproduction spangles17th-century artisans did it.

reproduction spangle punch handle view

Since that day, the trouble has been how & where to get some silver electroplated with gold and rolled to the correct thickness. Mark has solved all those problems, with the help of some new friends. A few weeks ago he and Wendy and Tricia questioned whether the gold layer was thick enough; they solved that too. Friday I got this message from Mark:

Hi Jill,

I have spangle stock in hand and i can have a quantity made for the 29th. I must show you the gilded ribbon it’s cool.

Mark

We are in business.

The next session on March 28 will see Robbin and Carolyn working with the reproduction spangles and the real lace pattern (the repro of the Laton lace, not the equally lovely but not-the-property-of-the-V&A pattern that went out in the kits) to work out any bugs.

I can begin taking real honest & true reservations for the subsequent scheduled sessions. Three lacers who were ready to come in February and got bumped have first dibs, and I will send out an email to them first thing in the morning (unless they see this and get in touch with me first) to find out if they would like to/are able to come for any part of the April 11 -14 session.

The next sessions are:

Friday May 16 – Monday May 19

Friday May 30- Monday June 2

Friday June 20- Monday June 23

If these sessions are not convenient, please call and let me know. I avoided Mothers’ & Fathers’ Day and Memorial Day thinking everyone would have other plans. If your idea of a great holiday is to come make lace, we can work that out. Let me know.

I’ll be scheduling more sessions; we’ll be working through the summer. Don’t worry – the office is air-conditioned and Plymouth has one of the coldest beaches on the Atlantic coast (that’s a good thing). Please feel free to suggest weekends or weekdays in July, August and September that would be good for embroidery or lace making.

We can have two lacers working at a time. Some have asked if they can make lace for one or two days and embroider for the rest of the session. That is absolutely OK, if you do an embroidery sample kit and learn the embroidery procedure. Also, we’ll have the same deal for lacers as for embroiderers, which is that once you’ve come during a session and learned the drill, you can then come anytime, whenever it suits you whether or not we have a scheduled session. Contact Kathy for embroidery and lace kits, kroncarati@plimoth.org or 508-746-1622 X 8114

As always, please contact me with any questions or concerns jhall@plimoth.org or 508-746-1622 X 8119 – and yippee!!

Knitters’ Hall of Fame

March 11th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Since November, 2007, we have received:

Stockings from:

Deb W from MA

Veronica M (two pair)

Virginia S

Melanie Anne (two pair)

Linda F

Liz P

Deb W from Texas

Cindy S

Leslie H

Salley C

Gloves from:

Rosemary C (two pair)

Liz P

Julie S (two pair)

The interpreters have been coming in all week, picking up their period clothes and choosing new knitted stockings from this fantastic collection. So far everyone has found a pair they like and that fit. Thank you all so much; without your generosity we would not have had any knitted stockings to distribute.

Gloves are also going away; some people who had been wearing many-times-mended yet still hole-full gloves have brand-new warm ones now. Thank you.

It has been rather busy in the office this week; people coming and going, trying on things, trading, choosing, taking away….

I will get some photos of interpreters in the new knitted goods and share them with you. Thanks again.

So many people answered our call for volunteer knitters that we have used up our yarn budget for the year. If you’d like to knit, or you’d like to knit some more, let me know and I’ll put your name on our knitters list for next year. Next winter I’ll order more yarn and send out kits again.

Lace samples have arrived from Mary D, Norma B and Carolyn W. They are all just beautiful. I hope to have good news soon about scheduling lace making.

To order a kit for either the embroidery or the lace, send an email to Kathy at kroncarati@plimoth.org or call her at 508-746-1622 X 8114. Kits are $40 each plus $5 for shipping. Included in the $40 is a $20 tax-deductible donation which directly supports the project. For more information, you can email me at jhall@plimoth.org or leave a comment.

Gratitude II

February 2nd, 2008 by Jill Hall

samples received: Lisa G (embroidery); Susan L (lace)

One thing that touches me every time is how grateful the stitchers are to be involved in the recreation of this jacket. It amazes me, because I feel so grateful to all of you – after all, if you didn’t show up, on the blog, in person, by buying kits, by contributing your knowledge and experience, by stitching, well, I don’t even like to think about it.

I need to thank the members of Team Lace for their hard work developing the lace kits that are winging their way all over creation these days. (So many in fact that Kathy asked Tricia to put together another dozen!)

First, a huge debt of gratitude to Carolyn H, who spearheaded the whole endeavor. Without her energy and commitment, the lace would be nowhere.

Holly van Sciver of Van Sciver Bobbin Lace for consulting for development of the lace sample kit, and especially making the final pricking for both the kit lace and the Laton lace (the one we’ll use on the jacket).

Shirley E — working on a final version of the pricking
Robbin D, Catherine K — beta testing the instructions and pricking
Tamara D, Devon T, Susan L — helping out with identifying period appropriate techniques, and especially with working diagrams.

The last two posts have sparked more thanks. This from Robbin:

A large part of the thanks (to the Mayflower Sampler Guild for the donation to support the sampler conservation) goes to the designers over the years who have given us designs for Christmas ornaments. These have been turned into limited edition kits that we’ve sold to raise the conservation funds. So thanks also go to the designers who have given us designs over the years — Martina Webber (Chatelaine), Ellen Chester (With My Needle), Rae Iverson (Moss Creek Designs), Lauren Sauer (Forget Me Not in Stitches) and Catherine Theron (Theron Traditions), along with Linda Connors, our outgoing program chair who arranged for so many wonderful donations.

And from Jen:

I have to agree that Wendy is awesome. She is humor, wit, mischievious devil and guardian angel all in one. One of the many blessings of working on the jacket project is meeting the other fabulous and generous folks pushing and pulling it into existence.

Well put.

Here are answers to Robbin and Linda’s questions from the comments. This new blog program has the capability for us to create and post pages that can be linked to, which will give Rich and me the ability to put up a page with, say, a standard write-up of the Textile Conservation Fund, plus a couple of Karin-approved pictures (I’ll ask her for those next week, Robbin). Then anyone could download that to share with guilds or local needlework shops or what have you. In the mean time, check out the blog entry for November 14, 2007 titled “Ta-Da!”

Which brings me to more gratitude. I was able to find that entry in about 30 seconds flat, thanks to Lyn from Ontario, Canada. Lyn has undertaken an extraordinary job in service to the cause – she’s indexed the entire blog. Last October she brought me a binder with the first 5 months of the blog printed out on numbered pages (sounds obvious, but isn’t) with an INDEX of topics. To see our work all put together like that, looking like an accomplishment, and with the gift of time Lyn had lavished on organizing my chatter, well, I was just overwhelmed. I nearly blogged about it several times, but it was such a special treat, I didn’t have the words.

Yesterday I found a box in my office with an updated index. Lyn’s note said “I thought 250 days was a good time for an update of the indexed blog text.” 250 days. I hadn’t thought of our odyssey in those terms. Anyway, when I wanted to know where the textile fund announcement was, I merely flipped to the index and then right to the page. This index is helping immeasurably as I manually recategorize the old entries and add tags. I still don’t really have the words, but being able to see the blog in a concrete, whole form like this is more than a gift of a time-saver. It’s sort of a gift of encouragement.sharon and lyn

Here are two pictures of Lyn, one of her skilled hands working as she has done more than one session already (and planning at least another trip as soon as the SNOW is gone) and another of her looking over a project with Sharon. I didn’t get many pictures of Lyn because she was always at the frame.

So, thanks. Thanks to all of you, for giving me a reason to keep writing.

Thistle while you work

January 25th, 2008 by Jill Hall

Kris’ hands

Kris and Heather are embroidering to close out the week. Those are Kris’ hands. Heather’s working on a thistle. Thank you, Wendy, for the photos and for the title for today’s post. Yesterday we walked to the 1627 Village in the freezing cold and gathering clouds (seems it only snows around here when we’ve got a session on) to look around a bit.

Heather’s thistles

One of the week-old kids (goat baby) poked his nose out of the shelter to see us, but the newer babies were kept in by the careful mamas. Rose the heifer demanded to have her chin scratched. Tom took some time out of thatching the roof of the newest 1627 house to talk about whether old embroiderers wore eyeglasses (in the 17th century he meant, and no, we don’t know) and a little about how we decide where to put the houses in the Village. Then we stopped in at the wardrobe office to look at some of the mended clothes.

Tomorrow Karin will show Heather and Kris the three samplers in the Plimoth originals collection. Yes, I’ve only talked about two before. We have another, which in my 17th century near-sightednessI didn’t “count”. It’s dated 1808 or 1809 and apparently is a pretty nice early 19th century example. When I started here in 1988 it was hanging in one of the offices of the administration building. D’you believe that?

Samples received: from Deborah P and Angel A

and the first lace sample from Devon T! Wow – that was extremely fast!

AND yesterday I mailed out 21 more kits for stockings and gloves, thank you to all the knitters who have volunteered.

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