What Needles?
March 7th, 2008 by TriciaTricia writes:
Before we get lots of questions, I thought I would add a blog about what needles we will use for the goldwork. You can see in this picture a #8 embroidery needle and something called a #10 Japanese needle.
In the 1600’s needle eyes were being made by both stamping and boring. Stamped eyes tend to be long ovals with burrs of metal inside where the two halves of the stamp come together. The bored eyes are drilled out and the eye is left smooth and round or oval shaped. There is more to this – but this is it in a nutshell.
There is some scant evidence from German needlemaking documents that goldwork was being done with egg-eyed needles. I have been working with historians/needle experts in Germany trying to find conclusive evidence for this hypothesis in relation to 16th-17th century English embroidery. Certainly I have found that using a needle of this description is the difference between a good experience and not being able to work with these metal threads at all. We do have evidence that needles that look like this were being made at this time frame.
I discovered this in the late 90’s when I was attending Japanese Embroidery classes (Kurenai-Kai) and had recently been studying a goldwork jacket at the MFA. It hit me that the Japanese handmade needles would be great for taking thick gold threads through the linen. I tried and found it worked great. Before that I had resisted teaching these types of stitches, as it was just too hard with conventional needles.
Artisans using ancient techniques make the Japanese needles. I know of one maker. If anyone out there is familiar with other makers in Japan or other countries, I would be very interested in hearing about them as the supply is sometimes difficult to get in the USA in bulk. There are twelve sizes available from the artisan that supplies Kurenai-Kai. Being hand made, they are also quite expensive – over $10 each. You try never to loose one! I have had the same set now for over 28 years.
Tricia




