Gussets
Ok - I can’t seem to let this plaited braid on the seams go. Fear I think. When I expressed dread and how were we going to keep the jacket from getting so wrinkled this brought up the jackets with pre-installed gussets. Yes, there are examples out there that have the gussets installed in the back and fronts first and then the embroidery pattern is worked over the seams. As luck would have it, there was one of these types of jackets laying on a nearby table. (I can’t tell you the personal strength it took not to run around the room and open every cabinet and look in!)
The jacket in question is accession number T.70-2004 and it is available on the V&A collection database.(Remember to use the search the collections function, not the search box on the V&A main page.) It is a simple but effective treatment with the background being a meandering line stitched with silver thread in reverse chain stitch, a speckling of spangles and the bobbin lace edging. There are very large gussets in this piece to give quite a flare off the waist. The embroidery pattern and embroidery travels right over the seams without stopping. The jacket is interesting also because the fabric is fustian, a mix of cotton and linen.
So the big question is - was all the embroidery done in the hand on the linen with the gussets installed or was most done on a frame and then it was taken off and the gussets installed and the local embroidery then finished in the hand. I couldn’t figure out a way to determine this. Darn it.
Tricia
Tags: bobbin lace, gussets, Spangles, T.70-2004, V&A
October 28th, 2008 at 11:53 am
I am really enjoying these recent entries–it’s a fascinating peek into the past. Thanks! Marjorie
October 30th, 2008 at 3:54 am
I notice that since this project has started the V&A have put lot more shotsof the jacket, and others on their website, definitely worth a look.
I’ve been following this blog avidly for a few months and like Marjorie can’t wait for more. I almost don’t want it to finish! What will you do next?