Blue Silk Lining II
Tonight I have more pictures of the blue silk lining, but right now the lining is still threads. Very fine threads, and lots of them. The first picture is “picking the cross.”
The second is of Justin putting the cross on the pegs of the warping board. Justin explained the importance of the cross, and maintaining it, in a previous post.
Justin suggested that I post a copy of the paintings of the serge (kind of cloth) industry in Leiden “which are my all time favorites of textile production (and) show a fellow warping with a horizontal scarn behind the woman spinning.” These paintings are in the collection of the Lakenhal Museum in Leiden, the Netherlands. I did look to see if I could find any online, but had no luck. Posting copies of things not in the public domain zips you right to a lower circle of licensing-and-permission hell; I’m not going there. I’ll ask Justin if he can refer us to a print copy, if so I’ll post that information.
These are Justin’s thoughts about weaving this way:
This process is the same way that weavers have been making warps since the 17th century. Producing cloth using these traditional methods is a lot of why I’m interested in textiles. Going through the same steps using the same tools as all of the people who’ve done it before makes me part of a real and viable tradition, and not part of an exhibition of so called ‘forgotten arts’. This spool was made and used in the 18th or early 19th century by ‘NL’. Although we don’t know who N.L. was, we are continuing to work the same way he did.
I’ve heard similar sentiments from some of the embroiderers and lacers, but this was particularly nicely put. The last two pictures are of the cross on the board and the rest of the warp. Justin takes really nice pictures, in addition to all the other things he does well.
Tags: , blue silk, cross, Justin, Lakenhal Museum, Leiden, lining, scarn, spinning wheel, warp, warping board
June 10th, 2008 at 4:48 am
Aha, first time I read all of that under, over and crossing stuff my brain simply refused to take it all in. Now with this post and the wonderful pictures, I had reread the first part and understand what is going on.
I have to say a gain that it is wonderful to learn so much about the various skills that are being employed in making this jacket. Thanks to everyone that has given time to sharing this information with us.
CA
June 10th, 2008 at 7:30 am
Having just learned how to do this, and measuring some warp just last week, it is great to see this post. It shows me how far I have to go in weaving since I can’t imagine working with such a fine fibre! But it is interesting, as are all your posts, and I think it really brings home all that is involved in clothing construction. Makes me appreciate my regular clothes as well as museum pieces.
June 23rd, 2008 at 9:51 pm
If one has access to JSTOR (academic libraries do. You can find it at http://www.jstor.org), you can find the image on p.430 of “Views of Haarlem: A Reconsideration of Ruisdael and Rembrandt” by Linda Stone-Ferrier as published in the The Art Bulletin, Vol. 67, No. 3 (Sep., 1985), pp. 417-436 Published by: College Art Association
Hope this helps, it is a lovely image. Next to it is a bread-baking plaque that is making me squee!
Cheers,
Mona