Recreating a 17th-century embroidered jacket, The Embroiderers' Story chronicles its progress.

Before

August 6th, 2007 by Jill Hall
Some “before” pictures. Here is the right upper sleeve and a detail. This was worked on only at the June stitching session. Next week I’ll have an “after” picture to show you.

The Process

August 3rd, 2007 by Jill Hall
I mentioned that our currently scheduled sessions are full, and that I’m keeping a waiting list for each. I’m also trying to figure out how to expand the December session from 5 embroiderers to a full 13 (so far no available venue around here). The November session has already grown a bit, we have 7 now and if I can figure out how to get that many frame stands into the workroom, we’ll have 8.
 
I think many people are wondering if their work is acceptable, so let me explain – as I suspected, just about everyone who is sending back their sample is more than a beginner. Most people attempting these stitches seem to have some familiarity if not with these specific ones then with demanding, exacting embroidery in general. We haven’t turned anyone away. And it is looking like we won’t have to.
 
We ARE taking advantage of each person’s strongest skills; Tricia looks over the samples and determines which stitch and which part of the jacket each participant will work. Also, Tricia is a pretty accomplished and experienced teacher. She gives a “point to perfection stitching instruction” at the start of each session and offers help as needed so that everyone is working to the top of their form. Several of June’s embroiderers said the experience was like a small, intensive class and their work got much better as a result.
 
The demand is high, though, and in order to allow as many individuals as possible the opportunity to contribute, we are giving preference to new stitchers at each session. In other words, you might not get to come two or more times. But on the other hand, I’m busy scheduling four sessions between January 2 and March 2, so there will be more opportunities. I can’t share those dates yet because they’re dependent on finding an appropriate space on the grounds and on Tricia’s schedule. But soon.
 
Tomorrow I will send out emails to the confirmed September and October session stitchers, so you’ll know definitely that we’re planning on your presence.
 
And I’m planning to post a few “before” pictures of the pieces so next week at this time I can post the “after” ones.

With gold metal bobbin lace

August 2nd, 2007 by Jill Hall
One sample arrived today, from Melissa Anne.
 
And kits are still going out. It’s not too late to order one, get in touch with Kathy at kroncarati@plimoth.org.
 
I’ve been working on the lace lately. The jacket we’re taking the garment pattern from, the Margaret Laton jacket at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, has wide (1 ½” wide) gold metal bobbin lace trimming the hem, fronts and cuffs. The jacket we’re taking the embroidery pattern from doesn’t have any lace now. We decided in favor of lace and now we need to get some.
 
I’ve been in touch with lace expert Holly Van Sciver of Van Sciver Bobbin Lace. For several years I have been buying linen thread and brass pins from Holly for our interpreters to use in their sewing projects on our living history sites. Holly recommended a number of books from which to choose an original or an historically inspired lace pattern. I chose to look at Le Pompe, 1559, Patterns for Venetian Bobbin Lace the 1983 Levey & Payne edition. Unfortunately, it’s out of print. I have portions of it in photocopy form, but not the whole thing. I consulted with Kate Moore, historical interpreter, lacemaker and embroiderer (maker of THIS - scroll down). I asked her to look over Le Pompe and let me know what she thought. Turns out she and I separately kept coming back to the same pattern so that must be the one.
 
For those of you who have this book on hand, we’ll be using Pattern 19F, Book I. It appears on page 106-7, and a pricking for it is on page 127.
 
Holly offered to help us choose an appropriate thread (thanks, Holly).
 
I estimate we need 5 yards. I padded the estimate slightly, but I would be even happier with 6 yards. You know, just in case. We’ll be trimming the jacket, the coif, and the forehead cloth.
 
I’m considering how best to go about obtaining the lace; I’ll keep you posted as we choose thread and establish a process.
 
It is now August, 2007. The tentative opening of the adornment exhibit (which is, after all, the raison d’etre for The Jacket) is July 2008, which those of you who are not stupefied from the heat will realize is LESS than a year away.
 
‘Nuff said.

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