Why Not?
“So, want to make a coif and forehead cloth to go with the jacket?” Tricia asked me that a few weeks ago, during the time that she was wrestling with how to get all the jacket pieces out of one piece of linen and still be able to fit the pieces into the frames we had (or thought we could get). My first thought was that the stress of the impossible puzzle had finally sent her around the bend. In my mind the jacket alone was still looming as a gargantuan goal and a logistical nightmare. This coif & forehead cloth wasn’t exactly a new idea, though. Months before, when we were laying out this project in broad strokes, one of the goals I outlined was to increase the embroidery skills and knowledge base of the Colonial Wardrobe Dept staff. Expanding skills is a worthy object on its own, but ultimately I was intending to create a coif and forehead cloth to match the jacket, like the suite of entirely metal thread embroidered jacket, coif, and forehead cloth in the collection of Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts. So my second thought was “why not?” Why not indeed. So we’ll be working on a coif and forehead cloth too, over these next months. Why not.
Thanks to Libbet, who left a comment confirming my suspicion that an embroidered coif & forehead cloth in the Burrell Collection is displayed upside down and backwards. I was hesitant to say so definitely, only having seen it in a photograph, but it is put together upside down and the forehead cloth is sewn on with the point going the wrong way. This is an easy mistake to make, especially if one has never tried to wear a coif; yet another example of how doing can teach you things even long and careful looking won’t reveal.
A forehead cloth, or in some period records, a cross cloth, is a triangle with tape or ties on two points. It is like the kerchiefs that were popular a few years ago and in the 1970s. It was worn in the 17th century over a coif, with the point facing forward, towards the forehead. They seem to have been part of informal wear, sometimes worn to bed.
Thanks also to the several ambitious embroiderers, some working solo, some in teams, who have left comments or sent notes to say that they are also working on embroidered jackets. If you send me some pictures (less than 3MB each) I’ll post some, so we can see what you’re doing and cheer you on.
Most of the daily work on this project right now is focused on getting ready for the first bee, which will start in less than a week (really? Next week already?). Much of what we’re doing, while necessary, is unglamorous and doesn’t seem particularly blog-worthy. For instance, today Kathy, Laura and I decided how many of each kind of table (small round and long rectangular) we’ll need, and in what arrangement. Not very exciting, but needed to be done. We’ve made lists of supplies we need – power strips, extension cords, nametags, coffee mugs. We’ve ordered a bunch of stuff and are crossing our fingers that it will all arrive in time, including daylight lamps, boxes to store supplies on the stitching tables, scissors for those boxes, and frame parts. I know Tricia is working on the master instruction book, which will have all the motifs and what colors & stitches they should be worked in.
I haven’t received any samples since Friday; I’ll keep noting here when I do so you’ll know yours arrived safely.
Tags: , Burrell Collection, coif, forehead cloth, Kathy, Laura, Libbet, Museum of Fine Arts





June 14th, 2007 at 2:33 pm
Good Morning – Just read that you haven\’t received any samplers since last Friday – Mine was mailed on 6/7, so if you don\’t receive it by today I\’ll start stitching furiously on the extra piece of fabric you\’ve given us for the scissors fob whatsis.
I\’ll be bringing a table lamp, but I also have 2 floor lamps I can bring that would extend nicely over a table – so if you can use the 2 floor lamps (one with a magnifier attachment) please let me know.
I also have several \”around-the-neck\” magnifiers that I can bring if anyone needs one.
June 15th, 2007 at 12:12 am
I have read many conflicting opinions on whether the forehead cloth goes over or under the coif, and if the point goes forwards or backwards. The majority has the cloth under the coif with the point going backwards. It was suppose to smooth out forehead wrinkles and keep the head warm, esp. when the wearer was sick. The forehead cloth under would help keep the coif from slipping towards the back of the head, though tying it over might accomplish the same thing. (I pin mine).
So do you run the neck strings to the back or to the front?
e
June 19th, 2007 at 4:11 pm
Physical experimentation with the coifs seems to show that the most effective way to wear them is with the point backwards, under the coif. This keeps the coif from slipping, and covers the front of the hair when the coif is tied back. My page http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/howtowearthecoif.html details my experiences.